Reptilian delights

Not really sure how delightful they were, but it was extremely interesting to get an up-close and personal look at many of the reptiles commonly seen here. Dr. Peter Tolson, director of conservation and research at the Toledo Zoo was at GTMO last week. He and some assistants searched for and caught a couple dozen specimens of reptiles, including toads, frogs, geckos, lizards, iguanas, and snakes.

The kids don't realize there are snakes and iguanas in the bags right next to their feet!

One of the several snakes that made its way around the audience.

About 200 people attended the show at Windmill Beach which some years ago housed an iguana research station. The afternoon was quite enjoyable -- and the most fun was watching the people watch the reptiles. Dr. Tolson would take a specimen out of a bag or plastic box, and walk around the circle of spectators, giving information about whatever reptile he was holding in his hand. If we so desired, we could touch the reptiles (except for the poisonous ones) as they made the circuit. (I didn't seem to have much of a desire to touch any of them!)

The boa stole the show, and it was challenging to get close for a photo.

The highlight of the afternoon was the boa constrictor which apparently is fairly common here. Not long ago I did hear a woman tell about almost stepping on one at a beach recently, and believe me, whenever I am now at that same place, I am scanning every rock, nook, and cranny for snakes. We were repeatedly told by Dr. Tolson that the reptiles are almost always more afraid of us than we are of them, which was small comfort. But, after all, the reptiles were here first, and it's up to us to learn how to share the environment. I just plan on keeping to my own space and enjoying them from a distance.

The Seedy Side of GTMO

Abandoned Air Sunshine Van on Leeward Road

One thing that shocked me right away when I arrived at GTMO was the deplorable condition of the base. I remembered old war movies that depicted naval bases as gleaming white buildings with palm trees and manicured lawns where officers wives, dressed in tropical dresses with pearls and perfect hair, played with their Dick and Jane-style children while the husbands sipped cocktails in the shade while cool breezes wafted off the ocean. I even recall visiting a converted luxury hotel in California that housed classrooms for the Navy's nuclear program. The opulence made me think that the Navy was always concerned about the image portrayed by its facilities.

Abandoned Trailer Behind Our Home

Then I saw GTMO. Faded chipped and peeling paint. Corroded, sun-bleached signs everywhere that were no longer readable. Roadways with huge potholes and eroded road beds adjacent to the pavement. Abandoned vehicles and trailers littering the alleys and fields often in plain view of newcomers. Yards in housing areas that were overgrown with tall grass and wild scrub trees or bare patches of coral residue where plant pirates descended within hours after a unit was vacated.

Supply Warehouse

Fences overgrown and falling down with scrub trees that had grown into the fence fabric blocking the view of the bay and the cooling breezes while harboring mosquitos, banana rats and feral cats. Piles of trash left behind storage sheds. Vacant buildings with broken and boarded up windows missing siding and fire escape stairs blocked by wild trees growing up through the steps. Patches of lawn covered with the washout residue from a lazy concrete truck drivers. (I would have been fined for that in the states when I drove a concrete truck)

Abandoned Building on Marine Hill

Ex-Navy people I know apologize for the spavined mess saying this is not the Navy they left years ago. One man who was here in 1994 said that the place was crawling with Sea Bees who sandblasted, painted, and polished everything that looked even slightly tarnished or rusty. They are not here in great numbers anymore. In fact, the Navy seems dedicated to contracting out every possible job that used to be filled by enlisted folks that does not involve carrying a weapon. These folks (mostly Filipino and Jamaican) work for Burns and Roe, the huge contractor who supports Navy bases worldwide. Nothing can be fixed without specific language allowing it in the "sacred" contract.

Basket Ball Court on Marine Hill

Therefore, if someone wants to see the bay from their housing unit and enjoy the breezes, they must hire off-duty workers to come and cut down the wild trees and brush and clean it out of the fence fabric and haul off the debris. Finding good workers can be difficult. Some just hack down the trees leaving a pile of tree trash and 4 foot stumps in the fabric that quickly grow new foliage.

Damaged Fence With Wild Trees on Granadillo Point

Many people park cars and boat trailers in their front yards and purposely avoid watering to keep yards to keep the grass in a constant state of dormancy so they never have to mow. Housing folks are supposed to monitor and cite offenders but that is only in theory, I guess.

Warning Sign on Beach Near Camps

I suspect that if and when the camps are closed and the base population decreases to a normal size, the Navy may find managing the base much easier without the constant distractions of politicians and media flies swooping in and out of here looking for a reason to pick a fight.

Butt Can and Grime at Leeward Ferry Landing

At least, the hospital and its grounds looks just like the old spit and polish Navy. The other ship shape building is the Marine security force headquarters. The rest of the base looks average or below.

Newspapers!!!

Five months without seeing an American newspaper and I received two in one day! I was so ecstatic that I actually ASKED to have my photo taken with my bounty. An FBI plane was scheduled to arrive on Monday, and the pilot asked in advance if there were anything he could bring to the air traffic controllers. Vince told him that the two things most requested here by the staff are: Krispy Kreme donuts and newspapers. So, the pilot (whose real mission was to fly here some DVs -- Distinguished Visitors) was kind enough to fill both requests prior to the flight, and Vince brought home the papers.

While I check the news (such as it is) on-line every day, I am old enough to still appreciate the feel of newsprint in my hands. And, I savored every moment Monday evening rustling through the newspapers!

Food Finds

On Monday someone knocked on our door and when I looked out, all I could see was a bunch of fruit sitting there -- either plantains or bananas. Since they both grow here, and I've tried neither of the locally grown species, I wasn't sure of their identification. These were shorter and stubbier than bananas I was used to seeing, so I needed some kind of verification. I tried looking on the Internet to find photos of both to help me decide, and after some searching, I came up with the obvious solution: have Vince eat one and tell me. So, he peeled a perfect yellow specimen and pronounced "banana!" And, it just wasn't a banana like we are accustomed to back home -- this little gem had the sweetest, most banana-licious taste I had ever experienced. I was ecstatic because now we had about 30 of them on the stalk, some yellow and others a bright green. (We later learned that the folks who had placed them on our doorstep had thought they were plantains and also thought that we would know what to do with them -- their loss, our gain!)


Then on Tuesday, neighbor Bob asked Vince to go fishing with him -- since Vince had a midnight shift coming up, he had most of the day free until his evening nap prior to work. So fishing they went, and my, were they successful! They caught about 20 fish and came home with the 13 that were worth keeping -- mostly yellowtail snapper (You can't see them all in the photo -- I was standing on the cooler and wasn't up high enough!) After divvying up the fish, we had quite a bit to cook. So, we were blessed with three nights of fish -- baked one night with olive oil and seasonings, broiled the next night with smoked paprika, and fish tacos with some of the leftovers the third night. It was all absolutely scrumptious, and I can't wait for the fishermen to get back out on the bay.


Another fruit I have been curious about but unable to obtain is the familiar coconut. There are certainly many coconut palms growing here, but you have to know how to get the fruit. So, today, my friend Hope gave me two coconuts -- her neighbor had given her four, so she shared with me. Since we didn't have the favored tool to cut them open -- a machete -- Vince borrowed a small ax and began to methodically hack away at one of the fruit. I didn't realize that coconuts have an additional outer husk that we don't see when we purchase them at home. These shells are extremely hard -- and I was getting more than a little nervous as Vince sat cross-legged on the lanai, with the coconut positioned between his knees, swinging the ax, and singing a working man's song....no, I take that last part back about the song -- I was getting carried away with my recollection.



Anyway, he finally was able to pierce through both layers of husk and shell, and we were disappointed to see only fermented coconut mush. Apparently these coconuts had been sitting on the ground for too long and were past their prime. Which was too bad -- but we will look for another opportunity to acquire some newly fallen coconuts.

Heart of Cuba

In honor of Valentine's Day, here is a photo of a heart-shaped impression in the hills -- this is not far from where we live in Granadillo Point. And at dusk, the hills take on a rosy-pink glow -- it's beautiful!

Trying to chill out

Some of you are familiar with the Grove standards on refrigeration devices in the home. For some years now, we’ve had two (or three!) refrigerators and one freezer. It didn’t take us long after arriving here to come across (to put it delicately) a second refrigerator.

It actually was sitting next door in the then-vacant property. Vince had been eyeing it for quite a while, and when he was able to determine that it was (1) available, (2) functional and (3) non-moldy, he decided to move it. When he was trying to decide just how he would do that, a Jamaican gentleman almost magically appeared in the adjacent alley with a hand cart. So, Vince gave him $5 to help move the refrigerator the few feet onto our property on the corner of our lanai. (I later learned from a new friend that she had lived in the unit next door, that it was her old refrigerator, and she told me “gee, I hope you took it before someone else grabbed it.”)

So, we now are up one refrigerator. Now, onto the freezer.......we were amazed to hear that the Navy provides freezers to households just for the asking. Since many of the homes are small, freezers are customarily placed in the “dining room” area. We were willing and able to do this, so back in October we made the official request. When we didn’t hear anything for about 30 days, we called only to be told that the freezers were “on order,” and after another 30 days, we were told “the freezers had to be sent back because they were too big.” Of course, this is all typical Gitmo-ese language and we are just getting used to it. Nothing happens quickly or even efficiently, it seems.

Then, when we received a phone call about 10 days ago from the Housing department telling us that a freezer was available, I was excited. It was delivered in short order (which was amazing in itself), and we proudly arranged it next to our dining table. I quickly started filling it with baked goods to make use of the newly acquired space.

About two days after that, the freezer started making a curious grinding noise. In fact, it was a veritable symphony between the freezer grinding away and the window air conditioner right above it chirping and blowing. It was all most unpleasant.

Consequently, Vince called the “Trouble Desk” which is the department contacted when....well....when you have trouble, naturally. (The name is just a little too descriptive and ominous for my taste.) After reporting the problem, an appointment was made for a service call which occurred the next day. The Filipino gentleman poked around and decided it was the motor. And, he didn’t have one. And one would need to be ordered. (I do need to mention that I had thought we were getting a new freezer, but apparently the one given to us had been moved from a recently vacated property.)

We emptied out the freezer, unplugged it, and propped the door open so it could be thoroughly aired out while awaiting the new part.

I was settling in for about a four month wait for the motor, when after a week, I received a phone call (it’s pretty funny to see “Trouble” listed on the caller I.D.!!!) saying that the motor was ready to be installed. The competent Filipino arrived the next morning, exchanged the motor, and now the freezer is humming along at a new low key. We only hope that it continues that way.

(Postscript: After posting, I did feel convicted to make an additional editorial comment. In no way am I whining about the privilege of having a freezer, or even two refrigerators. So many folks are struggling right now all over the world with a fragile economy and we do feel blessed to have been given everything we have. Most of what I write is merely an attempt to give readers a snapshot of living here. We have more than adequate shelter and plenty to eat, so no complaints from here!

Adventures in Papaya

I was always intimidated by papayas in the grocery store -- they were usually sitting all by themselves, apart from the well-known apples and oranges, looking very green and somewhat forlorn. Not being sure what to do with them, I carefully avoided them.

Thanks to neighbor, Bob, I have now dramatically changed my mind. (He and his wife, Laurie, live across the street from us and besides being the resident naturalist, he works with Vince.) Bob has a couple of papaya trees in his back yard, and a few weeks ago, he came to our door with two of the aforementioned green things, and proudly presented them to me. I took them (not even being sure what they were at first), thanked him, and wondered, now what do I do?


So, when all else fails, my motto is to consult the Internet, and after some research, I decided they needed to ripen first.

After a few days on the counter, the dark green turned to a pleasing, soft yellow.



I wielded the knife, slashed the ripest one open with abandon, and inside was the most luscious color of orange. I scooped out the seeds -- it didn't have the full complement of seeds, because the fruit was not at its full maturity. However, even not being as large as it could have been, it was....... how can I describe it? AMBROSIA! I honestly couldn't believe how amazing it tasted.

I am now hooked on papayas, and Bob brings them over to us when he can get to them before the fruit bats devour them.






Our four-plex of concrete villas is flanked by mango trees, which have been in full bloom for several weeks. Now, I am familiar with mangos (why would I buy mangos and not papayas?) and am eagerly looking forward to these beauties. Rumor has it that mangos are also popular with the fruit bats and banana rats -- these little guys can climb trees -- along with the resident Filipinos who also climb trees by bringing ladders at night and stripping the trees of the fruit....(or so they say.)

I've been puzzled why there isn't a fruit orchard here on base. As mentioned here, we do see papaya and mango trees, along with banana and plantain trees scattered among yards. It just seems there would be a huge demand for fruit that could be grown and harvested right here -- instead we see all of these same fruits in the Nex and they are shipped in from Florida.

Mango blossoms -- if you look closely (double-click on photo to enlarge) you can see the baby mangos forming from the blossoms.

Stay tuned for a later report on "Mango fandango" (I couldn't think of anything to rhyme with papaya, so I settled for "adventures.")