GTMO Chapel

Chapel

Interior of Chapel

Since last November, we've been attending the 1100 (military time!) "Protestant Worship Service" here on the base. Many of the services are held in the main chapel, one right after another, on Sundays. Over a dozen different groups meet to worship, with the list of services ranging under the headings of Protestant, Catholic, Islam, Gospel, and Jewish. Attendance at our service ranges from about 100 to 200 people.

View of the bay from the Chapel

The military chaplains here are great folks and do an outstanding job of working with so many men and women with all kinds of different needs. Not knowing what to expect when we arrived last fall, I was gratified to learn that a women's group (PWOC - Protestant Women of the Chapel) met weekly for Bible study, so I began attending. In addition to being a wonderful source of growth, it's also been a great way to connect with more people. A men's group also meets every week -- unfortunately, it's on a night that Vince would normally be resting prior to going to work for a midnight shift. However, last week he did decide to attend and forego the extra rest.

It's been interesting (and refreshing) to be part of a church group that has so little emphasis on money -- the building, utilities, and salaries are all funded by the military. So, most of the usual financial needs that a church might have are already being met. People are still very generous with their time and financial support -- money is collected in the weekly offering. And, there is a council that meets quarterly to decide where and how to allocate the funds, mostly to small, non-profit organizations back home. Our chaplain has asked Vince and me to be a part of this council, so we'll learn more about it when we meet in a couple of weeks.

My group of kids during a photo op

Last week was Vacation Bible School with the theme being "Crocodile Dock" -- and since I have the time and supposedly the energy, I volunteered to be a crew leader. It was a lot of fun, although I was worn out by the end of the week! We would meet at the chapel at 0830 every day, and each morning was devoted to shepherding the kids (ranging from preschool to age 12) to a variety of stations, such as games, crafts, Bible storytime, etc. About 75 kids participated, with over 40 volunteers, including some young men from a guard unit back in the States who were crew leaders and who were also exhausted by the end of the week.

GTMO's Great Outdoors

While I am busily complaining about the heat, Jamaicans walk around every day of the year, covered from head to toe with heavy clothing. Folks refer to them as "ninjas" -- they are responsible for trimming and cutting grass on the base. We assume that their apparel keeps out dirt and dust.

Have I mentioned recently that it is HOT here? Summer -- along with the hurricane season -- has arrived with a vengeance. Walking Fergus at 7:30 in the morning is a steamy adventure -- no breeze, just humidity and thickness in the air. The poor dog has gained seven pounds in the last few months, mostly because it's just more difficult to exercise him in the heat. Well, I'll stop whining about the weather (for now), and just showcase some photos from our surroundings.

This is Egbert, one of the many cattle egrets that wander around our neighborhood. They love to perch on vehicles, especially on the mirrors.

So many lizards and so little time! I do happen to photograph a lot of reptiles and it's not from any particular love of them -- it's just that they are omnipresent! (I wasn't able to identify this specimen -- it might be a gecko or an anole.)

Great Lizard Cuckoos are common in Cuba, and somewhat rare in other Caribbean islands. They are known for their long tails and red eyes.

We've been calling these cute litle things "blue tails" but I learned it's really a five-lined skink. There is likely a whole litter of them living under our refrigerator on the patio -- you see them scoot quickly under there when Fergus comes outside.

The video above doesn't have much action but it's just rather amusing to see a land crab in the grass play dead while Fergus busily inspects it. You can also see it at right in the photo. Shortly after we took this video of the "inspection," we heard from some friends whose dog did the same thing but got heartily pinched on the nose by the crab! The dog swung his head around to release the crab who then flew several feet in the air before landing on the ground. I just help Fergus keep his distance now.






Northern Mockingbirds are as frequently seen here as robins are back home. They have so many lovely songs! This guy was getting a bath -- Vince was spraying water from the hose up in the tree, and the bird seemed to love it.

And, last but not least, today is my baby girl's 29th birthday -- Happy Birthday, Erin -- wish I could be with you to celebrate!!!

Exotic or Despotic?

After recent heavy rains, these land crabs are everywhere -- this one is resting on our patio before scurrying away

Gorgeous hibiscus bloom

Shell with inhabitant on the beach

Royal Poinciana trees are in full bloom right now

Five of these starfish were underwater, right next to the shoreline

Miniature pineapple plant in our backyard -- the inedible fruit is about three inches long

This big iguana stood between me and my bag one day at the beach -- I had to out wait him to access my camera!

Every few days Vince and I have the "talk" -- how long are we going to stay here? Depending on what is happening on that particular day, we lean one way or the other.

We are in definite agreement that it's truly an exotic paradise here, as evidenced by these photos.

And, then, we will find ourselves on another day feeling somewhat oppressed, with lots of rules and fences and constant police presence. The MA's (masters-at-arms) are everywhere -- with roadblocks occasionally in the middle of the street, checking for seat belt usage and watching for the ever-present dangerous speed demon who might be driving 16 miles an hour. With so many organizations represented here - both military and civilian - guidelines and seemingly arbitrary rules abound. Communication regarding base-wide events is poor, and activities are geared to 19 year-olds. And, then there is the pervasive atmosphere of gossip, partying, and mean-spirited behaviors between roommates. On these days, we just want to come home soon, be done with exotic, and settle down with more comfortable routines.

No return date has been set yet -- Vince has just about reached the nine month mark, and his goal had been one year. We'll be making the decision sometime in August -- which will be here before we know it.

Visitors to GTMO

Russ and Karen departing the ferry

We were most fortunate to have house guests last week -- Vince's brother, Russ, and his wife, Karen, flew in on Tuesday. Their plane just barely landed before the sky opened up and poured buckets of rain on us. Luckily for us, it stopped for a bit while we rode the ferry across the bay.

We've been told that there is a "rainy season" here and we are finally beginning to believe it. After our showers on Tuesday, the sky burst forth again that night along with a big thunderstorm. The electricity was off for a couple of hours so it was nice and quiet without the air conditioners running -- however, I was starting to wonder what would happen to the coolness level. All in all, it rained about seven inches!

Wednesday was going to be our best day for a fishing trip, since neighbor Bob was available that day, and he is the best fishing guide ever. While it wasn't the most gorgeous day on the water (that would happen on Friday), at least it wasn't raining, so we took off in the pontoon boat.

Alas, I didn't re-charge my camera battery so there are no fishing photos unless Karen is able to e-mail some to me. All of us were able to catch some fish -- we had thirteen yellowtail snappers in all -- plus the huge ones that got away. It was great fun -- I can see why Vince enjoys fishing now!

Outside in the rain at the museum

Thursday was another rainy day -- all day long. So, luckily for us, our family was most agreeable in going to the gym to work out. Then, we had to celebrate with lunch at the Cuban Club, which was pretty good that day. In the afternoon we went to the lighthouse and museum, and that evening we grilled our fish from the previous day for dinner.

On the water -- Vince loves his Piggly Wiggly t-shirt!

We only had one day to cram in as much as possible before Russ and Karen would depart on Saturday, and we were grateful that the weather was cooperative and beautiful. Our day started with snorkeling on Windmill Beach, and then some beach combing to pick up some treasures from the sea. By this time, it was about noon and time to get our pontoon boat for our afternoon tour of the bay. We all sat back and enjoyed our ride, courtesy of Captain Vince.


Stopping for a while at Hicacal Beach, we were able to pick up a (dead) starfish and some shells. The sky was a glorious blue, a light breeze was blowing, and it was a great day to be on the water. After dinner, we drove up to the highest point on the base (not sure how high it is but it's where the three wind turbines are located), and spent some time with the spectacular views. Unfortunately, this is a location where photography is prohibited, so you won't be able to see evidence of this.

This was taken about 9:00 a.m. so it's not very warm yet

Saturday came around all too soon -- Karen and I were at least able to fit in a brief shopping trip at a flea market that was held in the elementary school gym before we all headed to the ferry for the leeward side of the bay. It was terrific to have Russ and Karen visit so that we could have the opportunity to show off the brighter side of being on GTMO.

A Tale of Two Fishes

Bill and Darcy

Thursday was a bittersweet day for us -- Our friend from back home, Bill, was heading back to Nebraska after working here for a year, and we took him and his daughter, Darcy, on a little fishing expedition prior to their departure on Friday. We just wanted both of them to have a good day since the circumstances involving Bill's termination of employment had been stressful.

So, my very excellent husband rented a pontoon boat for several hours and we set out on the bay, full of hope. While Vince has been fishing at least a dozen times, I had yet to go on a fishing foray, so I was looking forward to this trip.

Mr. Grouper addressing the net

It was a glorious day -- vivid blue sky, about a million shades of turquoise reflected in the water, and a pleasant breeze blowing. I took on the role of photographer, so Vince, Bill, and Darcy all began casting lines in the water. It only took about 15 minutes before Vince had a bite, and he quickly reeled in a Nassau grouper. Unfortunately, GTMO follows Florida's fishing laws, and this particular fish is a protected species that must be released. And, those who have eaten it say that it is absolutely delicious. So, we did the right thing and let Mr. Grouper go back in the water.

A couple of views of the Nassau grouper, including one looking down his throat!

We kept close to the shoreline, since many fish feed in the grass beds there, and it wasn't much longer before Vince again (the lucky guy) was yelling "Fish on!" which seems to be the catch phrase (pun intended) used to give a head's up to everyone else. This was obviously a bigger fish than the grouper and it took about 10 minutes of the fish fighting and Vince reeling to get him in the boat. It was quite interesting to watch the team effort that takes place -- Bill had to drive the boat in different directions to help accommodate Vince who was working on the uncooperative fish.

Short video prior to getting the fish on board ( -- I'm finally able to get a video uploaded!!!)

Vince and 11+ lbs of fish

We were all so excited -- this fish looked huge -- and Vince thought it was a yellow jack. Dinner was now guaranteed for that evening! Since neither Bill nor Darcy had caught anything, we spent some more time out on the water -- unfortunately, Bill got skunked, although Darcy had a huge shark take her lure. We actually were able to see the shark leap out the water and Bill estimated it at about 40 pounds. It was so much stronger than the line that it easily got away, but it was exciting for those few seconds to see it. Finally, we headed back to the marina with Vince's one catch, and leaving behind Mr. Grouper. (I wished we could have kept him!)

At home, Vince proudly showed his catch to our neighbor, Bob, who immediately identified the fish as a crevalle jack, not a yellow jack. While both fish are in the same family, apparently the crevalle jack are considered at the bottom of the list for desirable fish to eat. Bob routinely uses these fish for "chum" -- he grinds them up and uses them as bait. Since we had been counting on having fish for dinner with Bill and Darcy, I thawed some yellow tail that Vince had caught the previous week.

Even though I knew that neighbor Bob knows what he is talking about when it comes to fish, I looked on-line to see what others report about crevalle jack. And, he was indeed correct. Crevalle jack is known for being quite the fighter -- one website said to allow an hour to reel in a 30 lb. crevalle. But it is not considered to be any kind of eating delicacy -- it's considered strong tasting and somewhat "gamey" in flavor.

However, I persisted in my research, and found one person who recommended marinating it in buttermilk overnight. After Vince had fileted the fish, -- the flesh was a bright red -- he had given most of it to Bob for chumming, but we decided to place the rest of it in a yogurt marinade, since that was what we had on hand. Vince added a little cream to the yogurt, and we let the fish swim in that overnight. The next day, the yogurt mixture had turned pink and the fish had lost most of its redness. We grilled it for dinner, along with a steak just in the case the fish was inedible. BUT, we were very pleasantly surprised -- we both thought the fish was quite good and couldn't think of any reason why we wouldn't want to eat it again.

Tasty Week

Here are a few of the food highlights of the week......

A group of Jamaicans has climbed the mango tree in our neighbor's front yard several times now, picking large bags of mangos.

We decided that if we didn't take some quick action, there would be no fruit left.




So, Vince fashioned his mango-grabber by taping (using good ole' duct tape) a coffee can to a long stick. He cut a notch in the can to help release the mango from its stem. And, it worked!

We were able to obtain a nice little pile of mangos, and there are still some left in the tree if the Jamaicans come back.

Darren is one of our next door neighbors -- he is a nice guy who is very inventive in ways to use local resources. Shortly after he first moved in, he told me he wanted to catch land crabs (which only appear at night) and keep them in his back yard shed under a fluorescent light to try to encourage them to procreate. That didn't seem to work out, so he then started thinking about catching some of the roosters and chickens that stroll around in our neighborhood in order that he could gather some fresh eggs. So far, we have just noticed him shooting pebbles at a chicken with a slingshot. However, Darren's most fruitful hobby (so far) is using his spear gun to fish while scuba diving. (You can also see all of the queen conch shells on the work table that he has harvested during the last few months.)


Today, I was able to try a taste of one of his speargun catches - a lobster! I had no idea lobsters could be found here, but apparently some huge ones (three feet long) that can be caught even while snorkeling. I don't think I'll be trying that myself any time in the near future -- especially after I heard him describe his friend clutching a huge lobster to his chest until he could come to the surface -- ugh! That doesn't sound like fun. I'll just hope that Darren will share lobster with us again sometime soon.


Darren also used his machete to slash open a green coconut and let both Vince and me try some coconut water (not to be confused with coconut milk, which is made with the actual coconut meat). The liquid is cool and very refreshing. Darren told us that he watched some Jamaicans climb up a coconut palm tree in a couple of seconds flat -- they probably have been doing it all of their lives.

A look back in time

After entering the Bay and approaching Fisherman's Point

View from Fisherman's Point looking out toward opening of Bay

Guantanamo Bay had its first entry into the history books when Christopher Columbus entered it on his second voyage. Columbus had made pit stops at different islands in the Caribbean looking for gold. Upon reaching Guantanamo Bay, he was convinced it was China and spent the night at what is called Fisherman’s Point on April 30, 1494. Columbus named the Bay “Puerto Grande” and after considering the area to be an unlikely prospect for treasure, he and his ships left the next day for Jamaica (where they didn’t have any better luck).

Over the next several hundred years, Guantanamo Bay was a pirate stronghold, a haven for ships bent on peaceful missions, and an area defended at different times by the British, Spanish, and Americans. Due to the area’s lack of fresh water, the land directly around the bay was generally not appealing for population development, although supposedly there was a small fishing village there at one time.

In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt signed an agreement with Cuba to lease 45 square miles of land and water for use as a coaling station. A treaty reaffirmed the lease in 1934 granting Cuba free access through the bay, and converted the lease payment to $4,085 - the same price paid for the lease today. There is also a requirement that both the U.S. and Cuba must mutually consent to terminate the lease. Rumor has it that Fidel Castro has not cashed any of the lease payment checks for years and that he files them away in a drawer.




The oldest buildings existing at Guantanamo Bay are two of these concrete gun emplacements, built in 1906 by an Army contingent to help defend the Bay. Apparently, the gun emplacements were never used -- we wish the grass would be cut on top of the roof, since it overlooks the ocean and would be a great place to sit in a lawn chair and look out over the water.