Fidel's Fireworks

Cuban observation post (COP)

It is all too easy to block out your surroundings over time. The constant drone of window air conditioners, the smell of exposed mud flats at low tide, and the feel of ocean humidity that seems a bit stickier than Nebraska humidity at first. Then there are the ever present Marine Observation Posts (MOPs) and Cuban military observation towers sticking up along the horizon like mutant weeds in the desert scrub. At first, they seem ominous as one considers that we are unwelcome guests here in Fidel’s back yard. Especially when it is explained that the strip of no man's land between the US and Cuban fence line (maybe a quarter mile wide and about 25 miles long) is sown with thousands of land mines.

The US employed land mines here for a while until someone in power determined that it was “bad form” and ordered them removed. The Marines tell me that all (600,000, I think I was told) were removed with six unaccounted for. A dangerous task like that is made safer when detailed maps show the exact layout of the mine fields with precise counts. The Cubans evidently did not map out their fields or keep a count.

All of this side line trivia came into abrupt focus one windy Sunday evening recently. I arrived for work in the tower just before 4 pm and began settling in for the evening and completing the equipment checklist. I looked out to the northwest where I always enjoy the view of the mountainous terrain and puffy fair weather cumulous clouds above them.

I noticed smoke near the fence line about a mile away and was able to see flames devouring the tall dry brush with the binoculars. I made a courtesy call to Fire Station Three below the tower to see if they were aware it and described the location as best I could telling them it appeared to be burning between the US and Cuban fences.

Chief Three drove out to the MOP nearest to the fire and conferred with the Marine commander on site. I watched for a while as there was not any air traffic to deal with and began to see bright flashes and sudden puffs of smoke. It did not dawn on me that I was seeing land mines explode until I heard the Fire Chief call in on the FM radio that mines were exploding in the flames.

Two days later I was able to talk with the Fire Chief on the ferry ride to work. I was stunned to hear him describe his account of watching the Cuban military open their fence and send fire crews into no man's land. The Marine commander was calling in to his command post with a count of land mine explosions. Some exploded only about 100 feet away from the Cuban firemen according to Chief Three. The other strange aspect is that the fire seemed to be spread out a long way along the fence shortly after appearing, leading the Chief to surmise that it was set on purpose. I cannot imagine why the Cuban authorities would risk the lives of firemen to save some land mines. Fortunately the brisk winds kept the fire on the Cuban side and our dedicated Jamaican firemen were able to take it easy on a Sunday evening. (Submitted by Vince)